Seeking the wisdom of the Flist
I know that several (possibly many) of you have been to Venice. I'm planning a trip in June, and want to rent an apartment. I've got an offer of one right off St Marks Square - it's TINY, but the price is right and I like what reviewers have said about the landlady (and it's on the 2nd floor). However, just not sure whether just off St Marks Square would be really desirable or not... Any thoughts or ideas? If you were going to stay in Venice, especially if it were your first visit and potentially your once-in-a-lifetime chance to go, where would you choose to stay?
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Any of the sestiere can be good for staying - I'd go for central Venice rather than an outlying island - but I would opt for sticking away from major streets when possible.
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You'd be right at the heart of some of the "best bits", though everywhere is actually within walking distance. You will definitely want to see St Mark's (don't miss the museum upstairs with the horses) and the Doge's Palace anyway, and an apartment there would provide a good bolthole afterwards, which might help you avoid paying the stupid money for a sit-down and a drink in the Piazza itself. Lots of waterbuses call there, but it's an easy walk to the Rialto too.
We stayed in a hotel near the station, which made arrival and departure easy, but meant a walk every day to get where we were planning to go. That turned out to be one of the best bits. Everywhere you go in Venice you turn a corner and see another breathtaking picture. Take spare camera batteries and memory cards in bulk!
A tiny apartment is fine for a place that lives half outdoors anyway. I'd say go for it!
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We booked to go on the Secret Tour of the Doge's palace (http://www.whatsonwhen.com/sisp/index.htm?fx=event&event_id=21214), which was a brilliant couple of hours. Other highlights for me were the Frari and the Peggy Guggenheim collection. We didn't get out to Torcello, which I do regret.
But by far the best thing about being there was wandering around, finding a quiet square to sit, drinking coffee, looking at the gorgeous colours...
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Also recommended, the Scuola de San' Rocco.
Do not eat in the cafeteria at the Doge's Palace, it's awful.
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I totally recommend taking a trip out to the other islands - I love San Michele (the island graveyard) but I can see how others might find it morbid.
Wherever possible try to find places that look like the locals are eating in them - you won't regret it. There's a lovely one in the backstreets of Ca'D'oro, but I couldn't direct you to it.
Best advice - get lost. Find things that aren't in a guide book. I hope you enjoy yourself and love it as much as I did.
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Random tips:
There are some lovely Venetian mask makers (as opposed to Chinese mass produced) scattered around the city if you want a unique piece of art. We bought this one (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3299/3245169814_b28975e16b.jpg) from La Bottega dei Mascereri (http://www.misteria.org/venetianmasks/english.htm) at the artist's shop in San Polo (there is apparantly another shop near the rialto bridge too).
If you want a supermarket there's one on the main street in Ca D'oro - you can buy fresh bread, cheese etc if you want a picnic, and it's less expensive than always eating out.
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