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intertext: (Paris room with view)
Thursday, May 10th, 2007 10:32 am
I remember that last year in London jet-lag hit me with a wallop on the second day I was there rather than the first; the same is true now. Happy as I am to be here (and I am), it was an effort to get up and get out the door this morning.

Nevertheless, I accomplished my goals for the day. I procured a Museum Pass, found the Cartes d' Art shop and bought some unusual postcards, tracked down the shop my father visited in ... possibly ... the late 40's or early 50's. He was in the RAF, posted in Germany, and his job at the time was to carry dispatches from his base to Paris. Lucky him! I have something that he bought when he was here on one of those trips, and had some very, very faint hope of finding the shop. But non. It is now a trendy clothing shop in the Rive Gauche. Never mind. It was something to have traced his steps.

This afternoon, I explored more of "my" neighbourhood, and found first of all a Supermarche and bought some necessities like butter and salad dressing and more wine and more chicken (it is a less than closely guarded secret that I could happily live on Rotisserie chicken and salad). I found another market area a little farther afield (turn left at the Irish Pub!!) and made my way to the Parc de Monceau, a welcome oasis of greenery and flowers and statuary, within about a ten to fifteen minute walk from my apartment.

Parc de Monceau reflections

Life is made somewhat more difficult by not speaking the language. I completely abandoned the idea of buying an ice cream cone in the Parc because I simply didn't know what to ask for. Then again, sometimes things are just more difficult than they need to be. I knew that I could get the Museum Pass at the tourist information office at the Louvre. Consultation with the little map on the internet showed this establishment to be near the Carousel area, by that Arc de Triomphe de Caroussel that I saw yesterday. It's quite clearly marked on the little map. So I go there, and ... no... there's no Tourist office to be found. So, there was a kiosk of some kind with a couple of official looking guys in it, and I went up and said, I'm looking for the Tourist Office. Where is it? "Downstairs" he said. Um. Downstairs? Oh, yes, over there, there's a completely unmarked hole in the ground that leads you to this very official complex underground where, yes indeed, there is the office of tourism and one can get a Museum Pass. Phew. Some signage would be helpful, if anyone's interested...

The Museum Pass is good for 4 days, so I have to plan strategically. The next few are supposed to be cloudy and showery, then Monday is rumoured to be fine. Perhaps I will go to Versailles (covered by the pass) on Monday, and spend the next few days in the museums that I want to go to. I also want to go back to Saint Chapelle and see if I can get concert tickets (as well as just seeing the place).

Best Paris moment today? Definitely the jazz band playing on the Metro. (no, not in the station - actually IN the Metro) It was very very cool.

Any spelling mistakes or wobbly grammar, by the way, have to be put down to the fact that I'm drinking another bottle of wonderful wine that cost me about the equivalent of a 2L bottle of Coke at home. I'm surprised that alcoholism is not rampant here.

A bientot.
intertext: (Paris room with view)
Wednesday, May 9th, 2007 01:33 pm
It is now late evening, and I've had a full day. I've just finished a fine dinner of cold chicken and salad and a beautiful white wine (yes, I found the food shops). I've walked my feet off, but I'm feeling more oriented. At least I know which way is north outside my front door! Once, this evening, I almost got lost but then I found a street I recognized and found my way home - that's a good feeling.

But I'm ahead of myself.

I woke early and headed off down to the Ile de la Cite, to find Point Zero, and hit the highlights. I walked around the Ile de la Cite, past Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle and along the Seine to Pont Neuf. I crossed Pont Neuf, and walked through the Louvre complex and the Jardin des Tuileries. I stopped for coffee, then made my way to the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower. I had lunch at a cafe near the Ecole Militaire, then went to Rue Clerc, where I bought salad greens and fruit and cheese and bread, then headed home for a nap. After my nap, I walked down to the Champs Elysees and up to the Arc de Triomphe (highlight: the French flag furling under the Arc like a stage set for Les Miserables in the light of the setting sun), and back down towards my street, stopping to buy chicken and wine and more salad composee.

That was the intinerary - now the impressions.

I found myself surprised by the scale of things. Some things were much smaller than I expected (Notre Dame, the Seine, the Eiffel Tower); other things were much, much bigger, like the Louvre, which goes on, it seems, for miles.

I saw many beautiful, beautiful buildings. Lots of green space. Beggars. A very gallic waiter, dark, skinny, with a mobile nose and eyebrows. Many dogs of all sizes and shapes. Not as many frighteningly chic women as I expected, though there were more of these in the evening on the Champs. Lots of very French looking bicycles (no mountain bikes - they are all rather like mine at home, the old model sitting up straight handlebar kind with a basket in the front).

I learned that chicken breast here is less expensive than chicken legs (so much for the low fat diets!). That when a swarthy looking person, likely a women, asks you if you speak English, it's best to ignore her. That my French is crap; no one is fooled by my accent for a second. That my apartment faces North (Google Earth had led me to believe that it faced South, which was confusing). That if you want your five servings of fruit and veg per day, it's best to find them for yourself. Pastries are ubiquitous (I'd get fat, except you have to walk so far to find food).

Perhaps my best Paris moment today? An elderly gentleman stopped me near the Rue Cler and asked me if I was a tourist. When I said, "Oui," he asked me where I was from. When I said "Canada," his face lit up with a beaming smile, he shook my hand vigorously and exclaimed "Vive la Canada!"

Eiffel Tower
intertext: (Paris room with view)
Tuesday, May 8th, 2007 08:36 am
I sit, as you see me, in my Paris apartment, munching on a croissant aux abricots. I have accomplished my first successful shopping expedition and made myself understood in French, as I ordered a baguette avec poulet, the afore mentioned croissant, and a salade aux tomates.

It's a bank holiday of some sort today, and everything is closed. That's one disadvantage of having to forage for myself. No doubt in a day or so when I'm less stupid with tiredness I'll find a good marche and get in some supplies. Meanwhile, on my street
Across the Road in Paris
there are a number of interesting looking cafes and other eating establishments, including a number of Japanese restaurants, should I develop a craving for sushi. The one about three doors down even delivers, or so it would seem from the fleet of Vespas parked outside with little cold boxes decorated with the company logo on the back.

The trip over was very, very long and uneventful. Highlight was bus-ride in from the airport, through what I realized was Montmartre. I was filled with the utmost glee. Travel squee :)

Right now I have been up for going on 28 hours and am just pushing through to avoid the worst of the jet lag. No doubt I shall awaken, starving, at about 2 in the morning. I have half a croissant left to stave off the pangs if so.

So far, I'm liking it a lot. No dog poop misadventures yet, though I have seen a lot of dogs.
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