intertext: (gorey books)
Sunday, May 3rd, 2009 07:53 am
This is my first chance to respond to and present some of my own choices in last week's discussion of favourite children's books. Five Children's Laureates were asked to provide a list of their top five favourite books. This was followed up by Guardian commentator Lucy Mangan with her choices . All six lists are very personal, and it's interesting to see that there's virtually no duplication, no clear single favourite, and no Harry Potter.

That, of course, brings me to my own list. Read more... )
intertext: (poppy)
Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 10:17 am
The second world war is very real to me. My parents were both around 16 or 17 years old when it started, and I grew up hearing stories about it. How it was a blazingly beautiful day on the day that war was declared, and how neither of them would ever forget clustering around the radio to hear the announcement, and how the announcement was almost immediately followed by air raid sirens. My father was living in Teddington, one of London's suburbs, and my mum and grandmother were in a small village in Essex. My father was too young to join up, but was in the Home Guard, which was not quite as silly as it sounds when you talk about old men and boys wearing tin hats and carrying buckets of sand to help put out fires from incendiary bombs. My mum wanted to join up, but ended up working with the children evacuated from London. My dad became a wireless operator and remembered his Morse Code all the rest of his life.

My grandfathers fought in World War I. I have letters from my mum's dad to my granny from the front. They don't say much, because they couldn't, but help fill in a picture of a young man desperate to keep a stiff upper lip and present a brave face to his young, rather silly, wife. They hadn't been married long, and I think Granny was already pregnant with my Aunt Joan when he went away. I never met my mother's father; he died of a heart attack when my mum was sixteen, just before WW2 broke out.

My mum used to tell me about Armistice Days when she was a child. She said they were always terribly sad and solemn. The whole village where she grew up was affected - so many young men who didn't come home, or who came back, like my grandfather, shattered and changed. My grandfather was very quiet and reclusive, and couldn't bear loud noises; we realize now that he must have been shell-shocked. One of his letters has a poem about wearing poppies - it sounds as if there was some controversy about it, and I'd love to know more.

They are all dead now, except my Aunt Joan, but she is enclosed in the mind-prison of dementia. "Lest we forget" is very real, now, too. There can't be many WW2 veterans left, and I know there are only two, possibly only one, WW1 vets left in Canada. What shall we do when all those minds fall silent? All those witnesses to history, gone? It is up to us to keep their memories alive.

Lest We Forget.
intertext: (deerskin)
Wednesday, July 30th, 2008 04:42 pm
And maybe you can help me identify one of them!

Because I've been cleaning and clearing and sorting, I've been thinking about what books in my collection to keep and what, if any, books from my youth are missing from the collection, and whether they'd even be any good if I could find them and read them again. I have in mind three very obscure books, two that I remember the titles of, and one that I only read once and have only a very vague recollection of.
The Strange Light )
Something I don't remember )
The Winter of Enchantment )
intertext: (fillyjonk)
Friday, May 9th, 2008 10:42 pm
I've spent a pleasant time today sorting my iTunes playlists and tidying up the music library. I found a nifty little utility that allows me to package and move a number of spoken word things I had copied from cds, which got put in the music library. This had meant that if I ever put my iPod on "shuffle" my music would be interspersed with Ian McKellen reading The Odyssey, or bits of the BBC version of The Lord of the Rings. These have now been removed nicely into "Audiobooks" where they belong.

I also had fun creating a playlist I've called "my soundtrack" - my life in music. Everything from the love theme to Zefferelli's Romeo and Juliet (which still brings tears to my eyes), to "To Sir With Love," from "Girls Just Want to Have Fun" to "The River," from "In Your Eyes" to "Northwest Passage" and "City of New Orleans" (oh, and I've just remembered "Sitting on the Dock of the Bay"... maybe in the morning.) It might be really weird listening to my past coming back to me, or it might be lovely. We'll see.

And I've just remembered a few more...
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intertext: (Default)
Saturday, April 26th, 2008 02:34 pm
I spent some of it this morning scanning some of my slides from China


view from guesthouse window

This is what I used to see out my sitting room window in the Guesthouse at the University.

I thought these old houses were attractive, but apparently no one wanted to live there. My students were more happy if six of them were crammed into one apartment room the size of my sitting room. We lived in almost embarrassing luxury, and we learned that the Guesthouse was called the "Panda Cage" by the locals: a place for pampered and spoiled foreigners.

I was awoken my first morning by the sound of someone sweeping the street with a straw broom, even before the university loud-speakers came on with the national anthem and y-er-san-si exercise routine.

Once, I was sitting on my balcony overlooking this street, when a cat ran by. Someone came out of one of the side streets you can see, and asked me if I'd seen a cat. "Was it a white cat?" I asked, and, when the answer was a nod, I pointed down the way the cat had run. This very mundane conversation had added glamour and was a source of pride for me because it was all conducted in Chinese.
intertext: (deerskin)
Saturday, December 8th, 2007 10:12 am
I can't imagine a house that isn't full of books. It's always the first thing I do, when I go to a friend's home for the first time: make a bee-line for her bookshelves and start perusing. I have so many books now, especially since I inherited all my mother's, to start an online bookshop of my own. And I still might. But [livejournal.com profile] sartorias' post this morning about buying books and how her habits have changed over the years made me think about where and how I acquired many of my own books.Read more... )
intertext: (deerskin)
Sunday, September 23rd, 2007 06:20 pm
One of my earliest memories is not of reading but of being read to. My mother, I realize now, was remarkable and wonderful in introducing books a little above my actual reading level by reading them out loud to me at bedtime. So, I clearly remember her reading The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe to me when we arrived in Canada when I was seven. We stayed at Sproat Lake with my Great Aunt in a bona fide log cabin, and my mother read C S Lewis to me at bedtime. I wept when Aslan was killed, and she reassured me that somehow everything would turn out all right. And it did.

Little traitor, I loved it when my father read out loud to me, which he seldom did. Whether it was the novelty, or whether it was those Emery acting genes, it always seemed to me that my father's reading was more exciting and lively than my mother's.

Once I started reading for myself, a recurring theme was my effort to escape the strictures of bedtime. I was given a torch (flashlight) for my birthday or Christmas shortly before we left England, and that would have allowed me to read under the covers except that my mum was wise to me. Efforts to turn my bedside light on again after I'd been "settled down" for the night were thwarted by my parents spotting the light under my bedroom door. The best thing was, once we came to Canada, the yearly ritual of putting coloured lights on the house at Christmastime. I don't think my parents ever realized how bright those lights were, and how they allowed me to read delightedly for long stretches of time after my official "lights out."

Later, when we moved down to Victoria, I remember the Saturday ritual of going to the library. At that time, the main branch of the library was in the old Carnegie building on Douglas and Yates. We would go every Saturday morning, and I would get my limit of eight books. Then we would go a couple of doors down to the English Sweetshop, and I would buy "scotties" candy with my pocket money. Then, at home, I spent a blissful
afternoon munching my candies and reading one, if not two, of my library books.

Then, there was the Book Exchange. You took in four paperback books and you could walk out with two. Wondrous.

And do you remember the Scholastic book club? You ordered from a catalogue, then on one afternoon at school the teacher unpacked a big box and you went home with two or three or four new paperback books. Some memorable Scholastic books I "bought" were Shadow Castle, Grey Magic by Andre Norton, and Understood Betsy.

So many books, so much time. The long hours of childhood - the long summer holidays, the Saturday afternoons that stretched forever. And endless books, still undiscovered. Bliss.
intertext: (Default)
Friday, August 31st, 2007 09:41 am
I'm inspired by [livejournal.com profile] gillo's thoughtful post on the anniversary of the death of Diana, to post some reflections of moments in my life when news items came into sharp focus. Usually, we are overwhelmed with a sea of images and events, especially nowadays when there are so many opportunities to access information. Even as a child, however, I was aware of a swirl of news around me all the time. My mother had the radio on all day long; my father was an information junkie and used to watch two or even three news broadcasts every evening, on top of his reading of the daily newspaper. Some events, though, rise to the surface of that sea of information and have a distinctness that others lack.

The Kennedy Assassination )

Churchill's funeral )

The Moon Landing )

Watergate )

Shooting of John Lennon )

Challenger Disaster )

Diana )

9-11 )
intertext: (Default)
Sunday, August 19th, 2007 04:11 am
Yesterday, I went to a memorial service for a man I'd never met. No, I haven't suddenly become one of those people who likes going to funerals; this was in my vaguely "official" capacity as still being Acting Chair of the English Dept, for the man who was to have been Chair of the Biology Dept at my college. He was two weeks into his appointment when he was diagnosed with the cancer that took his life only a few months later.

I didn't want to go, but thought to myself that two hours or so out of my Saturday afternoon wouldn't hurt me. As it happened, I probably wouldn't have been missed, but ultimately I was glad I went, because, in the way of such things, going brought me several gifts.

One gift was being witness to the celebration of a life embraced and lived as fully as seems possible. This was a man of depth and accomplishments - he travelled widely, built his own trimaran and sailed it, developed close relationships, was survived by several children. He competed in martial arts and worked to build an association of his discipline in Canada. He was a mountaineer (which made me think of [livejournal.com profile] countrygardener - Marty, did you know someone called Ted Davis? It wouldn't surprise me if you did). His life had been so full and rich that even though he died too soon at sixty I couldn't help but feel that he had lived a complete life that one could truly celebrate with a sense of loss of a friend and father and lover and coworker but no regret for things undone. And, of course, this made me think of my own life, and wonder what people might say at my memorial service, and whether I could share that sense of fulfillment, and to think about what I should do that I have left so far undone.

Another gift was meeting there someone from UVic, a colleague from a part of my life that I've almost forgotten: the years I spent teaching there for their community education program. She folded me into a close and warm hug, not one of those "air hugs" but a true embrace, one that both asked for and gave comfort.

The third and perhaps greatest gift was talking to my friend dr afterwards. She has recently been through a death in her own family and is having a hard time with it. She asked me about my memorial service for my mother, which brought back warm memories for me but talking about it brought us both to tears. This was a good thing, though, because although we've been friends for a long time (almost as long as I've been at the college), things have been a bit shaky between us lately and I've felt a serious risk of losing our friendship. However, our brief talk was intense and emotional but full of promise to work hard for our friendship because it was important to both of us, and I left her feeling more confident that would happen than I have for perhaps years.

I wrote that this re-connection with dr was "perhaps" the greatest gift. That is not to qualify the gift, because it was hugely important, but I think that it in fact was not the greatest. The greatest gift was being reminded that today, this moment, is all we have. That it is so desperately important and essential to appreciate what we have, and make every moment, every hour, every chance for connection and engagement with people and life as full and warm and rich as possible.
intertext: (Default)
Sunday, July 22nd, 2007 03:41 pm
The rules:

1. Leave me a comment saying anything random, like your favorite lyric to your current favorite song. Or your favorite kind of sandwich. Something random. Whatever you like.
2. I respond by asking you five personal questions so I can get to know you better.
3. You WILL update your LJ with the answers to the questions.
4. You will include this explanation and offer to ask someone else in the post.
5. When others comment asking to be asked, you will ask them five questions.

My questions and answers are behind the cut )
intertext: (small mis'able dog)
Saturday, June 23rd, 2007 09:14 pm
Today would have been my mother's 84th birthday.

Through all the busy-ness, through all the going-to-Paris, and work, and the garden, and the dogs and ... whatever, I just miss her so much sometimes.

This is the second birthday without her. The last one we celebrated together, she was in the hospital, and I smuggled cold chicken and a half-bottle of sparkling white wine and raspberries in, and we went up to the roof garden built for the Hospice, which is beautiful and peaceful, and we had a picnic, and it was very special.

Every time I'm in a bookstore and I see a book she would have loved, I want to get it for her, and I have consciously to stop myself from picking it up and buying it. I don't know how much longer I'll go on wanting to buy things for her.

And I want her there to talk to about the garden, and about how Cholmondeley the dog is getting thin but still doing okay, and about how Bill and Judith have a new puppy and isn't that great since Henry died, and about all the crap at work, and about how Mavis is doing, and about the postcard I got from her cousins in England, and about Ed and Anita's granddaughter at University, and about all the books I'm reading, and the new people on the street, and about doings on Coronation Street, and about the lovely new market downtown, and my plans for the dining room, and...

But she's not there. And I just miss her so much.
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intertext: (deerskin)
Tuesday, June 5th, 2007 11:57 am
[livejournal.com profile] a_d_medievalist was writing about how she's just always been an sf/f fan without even thinking about it, partly through her early television viewing habits. Like many others, she cites Andre Norton as her first conscious "sf" reading. (I think mine might have been Eleanor Cameron's Mushroom Planet books, if they count).

Anyway, that got me to thinking, about how one's reading tastes are shaped, and all that "give me a [girl] before the age of seven" stuff, and what was I reading at seven and at fourteen, and have I always been an sf/fantasy reader even if I didn't know it?

Well, yes.

I was reading fantasy before it was a "genre," and before YA was even invented as a marketing tool.

At seven, my mum was reading me The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe out loud, and I wept when Aslan died. My other favourite books were the Arthur Ransome series. That trend continued. I seem to have had parallel affections for "magic" and "realism" - perhaps the mindset that seems to have so many readers of sf also reading Patrick O'Brien or Dorothy Dunnett. Through my elementary years, my favourite books were the Narnias, the Moomins, and the Carbonels. My absolute favourite book, if I had been asked at nine years old, was Alan Garner's The Wierdstone of Brisingamen. I also loved Arthur Ransome and the Little House books, and Noel Streatfield, so there you go.

At twelve, I discovered Tolkien, and I was lost. I also read Ursula Le Guin's A Wizard of Earthsea around that time (the next two in the trilogy came out when I was in my early teens; Tehanu not till I was in my 30's). I had been reading Lloyd Alexander as well, and Joan Aiken, so by this time my tastes were getting pretty much locked into the fantasy area. Also Over Sea Under Stone by Susan Cooper came out around that time. Boy. Someone was saying something about this being a "golden age" for YA or children's fantasy - what were the 60's and 70's, for heaven's sake???

I remember my first real experience of science fiction rather than fantasy (other than the Mushroom Planet books, that is): Ray Bradbury's S is For Space, that my mum got me one weekend from the library. I was completely captivated, and hooked, though I've never been as much of a "hard" science fiction reader as I am a fantasy reader.

I can't remember exactly when I first read Patrica McKillip, but The Forgotten Beasts of Eld appeared in paperback somewhere in my late teens, early twenties, and I was reading the Riddle Master trilogy when I was at university. I remember because the man I was in love with then, the great love of my life, gave me the last book in the trilogy when it came out, and he had read it first, and he teased me by pretending to tell me how it was all going to turn out... Oh, memories.

Old Prufrock may measure his life in coffee spoons; I measure mine in books.
intertext: (Paris lights)
Thursday, May 31st, 2007 08:29 am
It's amazing how far away it already seems. It was a wonderful holiday, and I thought I would post some final thoughts about memories and impressions.

under the cut, to spare those who have had enough of my Paris ramblings )
intertext: (moulin rouge)
Sunday, May 27th, 2007 08:09 am
Sightseeing


Today, I noticed a big influx of rather well-heeled touristy types at my favourite cafe, then I remembered that the French Open starts today or tomorrow. Probably a good time to be leaving Paris.

I can't finish these entries without some remarks about my fellow visitors to Paris. And I apologize to some on my flist because I perforce will be making comments about people from that big country south of Canada, in which I know some of you reside, and those comments may tend to promote certain stereotypes. It can't be helped, really; unfortunately, many of those tourists from you-know-where behave precisely the way one might expect them to, based on those stereotypes.

First, though, I was struck by how truly international the tourists are here, and indeed everywhere else I went on this trip. I have encountered at least as many obvious tourists from Italy and elsewhere in France as the "usual" (or what is usual for BC, Canada) Japanese and Americans. I've run into quite a lot of visitors from Mainland China, and as my Chinese is actually better than my French, was in the odd position this morning of giving a trio of them directions in Chinese. And of course there are the Germans, who have their own brand of stereotypes to live up to, or down, or whatever. And a few Aussies, and even one or two Canadians.

Here are a few vignettes:

The young, Paris Hilton-like, bored, drawl in Sainte Chapelle (for me, the most stunning place I visited): "What was the name of this place again?"

The American women who thought "Tours de Notre Dame" meant Tours of Notre Dame and were horrified to find themselves climbing 155 or however many stairs to the top.

The unfortunate, obviously Muslim and vegetarian man in the take-out bagette sandwich shop asking in somewhat desperate tones if everything had "meat," and the clerk saying but of course!

The nicely dressed family (Americans again) this morning at the cafe who ostentatiously passed around one of those bottles of disinfecting gel before having breakfast.

The group of women in the restaurant where I had lunch today, who I could hear were annoyed because I got better service than they. I felt like saying, "well, if you don't even try to speak French, and you order Coke with the dish off the menu that they have to prepare specially instead of doing what I did and ordering the plat du jour and asking your waiter to recommend a good wine..."

Then again, there was the charming couple from Seattle whom I met at Giverny and talked to for quite a long time, and the two women from "Phillie" this morning who were absolutely thrilled to be here and delighted with everything.

There's that Italian women in my photograph above, who stopped and stared at the drunk passed out on the steps of the Sacre Coeur.

And of course, there's me, bumbling around on my own, eavesdropping on conversations, taking photographs and generally being a perfect nuisance probably :) But having a great time.
intertext: (Mont St Michel)
Friday, May 25th, 2007 08:32 am
*And yes I know the title is not original

It's no secret that I didn't like my father very much. His death, in 1986, was, to be honest, something of a relief to me and I think secretly to my mother as well. I spent my childhood avoiding his terrible temper and his "moods" and have spent my adulthood recovering from the insecurity and self-esteem issues caused by his inimitable blend of abuse and over-protectiveness. And yet.

And yet.

He was my father, and in some ways I loved him. Everything I did for years was an effort to please him and make him proud.

This trip has been for me in part a way to lay some ghosts, to put aside enmities, and to come to terms with the part of me that is my father. To explore the part of the world that my family came from, and places my father has been. To revisit a scene from my childhood for which my only memories are happy (that day, anyway - the rest of the holiday was a blend of excitement and nightmare as so many times with my father were). For me this trip is some means to lay my father to rest, just as I did for my mother in my trip to England last year.

I have a photograph of me at age 4 standing against a backdrop of Mont St Michel, taken on the drive down to a farmhouse in Brittany that my parents had rented with my aunt and uncle. It represents so many things. That long ago holiday, four out of seven of the participants of which are now dead. The fact that my father was a great and adventurous driver - we had our car with us on this trip, and this drive was only one of hundreds of memorable "road trips" that we took as a family. I think I get my wanderlust and adventurous spirit from him, though it's ironic that he'd be turning in his grave at the thought of me, alone in Paris, even now, when I'm older than he was when that picture was taken and have had in many ways more life experience than he.

A little while ago, sleeping in my Paris apartment, I dreamed that I had an argument with my father. I wanted to spend all my coins because I knew that coins couldn't be changed back to Canadian money. He insisted that I was wrong, and looked at me with that classic patronizing, pitying expression that he did so well. I argued that I knew I was right, and in any case I had just been on a trip, more recently than he, so I knew what I was talking about. He just looked at me pityingly, and I woke up feeling frustrated and angry as I did so often when my father was alive.

And yet. Here in France, I have seen where my father got his dark skin and whipcord thinness. I've seen his eyes, and my own, looking back at me - bright blue and slightly pouchy, rimmed with dark lashes - on the streets and in the Metro.

My father came to Paris just after the War (WWII for those who need to make that distinction). It was somewhere he had been and neither my mother nor I had, somewhere exotic and romantic and wonderful. My uncle David, in whose shadow my father and uncle (my father's twin brother) grew up, came here in the 1930's and it's my bet that there was something of walking in Uncle David's footsteps for my father, just as there is something of walking in my father's footsteps for me now. But I'm not stepping in them; I'm making my own journey and my own memories and my own peace with my childhood and the shadow of my father.

So that's why I came to Paris, and why I went to Mont St Michel.
intertext: (Paris lights)
Saturday, May 19th, 2007 08:43 am
Another day of a little bit of everything. I got up fairly late, popped down to the Monoprix for weekend groceries then headed out. I went to my favourite part of Paris, Ile Saint Louis, for coffee, then headed towards the Marais, where I went to La Maison Europeene de la Photographie. There were several major temporary exhibits showing, the first of which was Richard Kalvar, "Terriens," very provocative and sometimes amusing black and white street shots from primarily Paris, New York and Tokyo.

My favourite gallery was "Trash." Let me tell you how I encountered it.

At first glance, this was a collection of large composed pictures of ... yes, trash. Discarded chip bags, empty pop bottles, dog food tins, shopping bags, all kinds of stuff, arranged artistically in frames about 4 x 3 feet large. I have to confess that I'm not a big reader of museum or gallery information boards. Even less when they're in French. So, anyway, I go up and look at one of these, thinking, okay, this is interesting, and I like the way they've laid out the stuff kind of thematically and in a nice design. So, I look at the title of the first one; it's "Ronald Reagan." And I look at the stuff and think "hmmm. Is this supposed to represent Ronald Reagan in some way? Hmmm. It's interesting, but I don't think I quite get it." Then I look at the next one, and it's called "Charlize Theron," and all of a sudden, I get it. This is actually Charlize Theron's garbage. And I went back to the introduction and from what I can understand of the French, this was a project where two guys, an anthropologist and an artist, got together and literally sifted through the garbage of the rich and famous and the pieces are the result of this. It was fascinating, in a strangely voyeuristic way. I felt somehow guilty for feeling fascinated, but it was amazing what artifacts of a life each of these pieces was, and how characteristic it was. Charleze Theron's was bags from posh clothing stores, and cigarettes, and the wrapping from nicotine patches, and a letter congratulating her on her Oscar nomination. This was not the only time I felt sad for the sender of some of these messages that ended up in the trash... I can't detail all of them, but suffice it to say that each - Mel Gibson, Tom Cruise, Elizabeth Taylor, and more - was somehow revealing and characteristic of the person it represented.

So then I headed back to the Ile Saint Louis, where there was an exhibit of original artwork connected with "Persepolis - you know, the graphic novel? Well, apparently they've made an animated film which is showing at Cannes, and this was an exhibit of art from the film or connected with it. I nearly bought a limited edition print and shall probably regret not doing so (I could, still), only because I couldn't think how I would get it home (they were framed).

Then I went and bought a glace (blackcurrant and mango) from Berthillon, which supposedly has the best ice cream in Paris - it was wonderful, more like gelato than ice cream. This, I ate strolling through the streets and then on the banks of the Seine. I stopped and sat down for quite a while on the Seine, looking at Notre Dame, which viewed head-on looked remarkably like a space-ship, or something in a Miyazaki film.

Then I headed across the river to the St Germaine des Pres district again. I found a shop specializing in comics and Manga and bought a graphic novel version of Proust (!!) and an Herge marque page, and a little plastic figure of Snowy in a space suit. I then strolled up the Blvd St Germaine and was thinking of going to the Bon Marche, but was too tired, so I came home. And here I am.
intertext: (moulin rouge)
Friday, May 18th, 2007 11:36 am
The sun was shining (hip hip hooray) this morning, so I decided to go to Montmartre. I heart Paris, but I especially heart Montmartre. Yes, it's touristy, but it's very charming and beautiful. And I walked and walked and walked today - all the way up the hill from the Metro station to the Sacre Coeur, then ALL the way home. I just wandered until I found myself close enough that I figured I'd just keep going.

Of course, I had another wonderful lunch - this time in an Auberge that was once frequented by just about all the famous artists you can think of, AND Zola. Its garden served as the model for one of Van Gogh's paintings. What I liked was that it had a nice shady terrace out of the way of the throngs on the street, but I could sit and watch the world going by. Also, apart from a couple of Germans, I was the only non-French person there, as far as I could tell, which made a nice change from all the touristy ones closer to the Sacre Coeur. Here, because [livejournal.com profile] lidocafe asked for it, is a picture of my lunch.

My Lunch

Chicken with chervil, the best bread so far, house white wine and coffee to follow. The beans were overcooked again - I'm surprised by this trend, having thought the French knew better. However, the chicken was delicious. I can't believe how much I'm eating on this trip; it's a good thing I'm doing so much walking or I would definitely get fat!

EDIT: Oh, and I forgot to mention: I saw two cats today. After all the hundreds of dogs (that I love a lot) it was nice to see a couple of felines. One was obviously the "house cat" of the restaurant where I had lunch.

And today's musical offering was a harpist on the steps of Sacre Coeur. Rather nice until he started to play "My Heart Will Go On"...
intertext: (Paris room with view)
Thursday, May 10th, 2007 10:32 am
I remember that last year in London jet-lag hit me with a wallop on the second day I was there rather than the first; the same is true now. Happy as I am to be here (and I am), it was an effort to get up and get out the door this morning.

Nevertheless, I accomplished my goals for the day. I procured a Museum Pass, found the Cartes d' Art shop and bought some unusual postcards, tracked down the shop my father visited in ... possibly ... the late 40's or early 50's. He was in the RAF, posted in Germany, and his job at the time was to carry dispatches from his base to Paris. Lucky him! I have something that he bought when he was here on one of those trips, and had some very, very faint hope of finding the shop. But non. It is now a trendy clothing shop in the Rive Gauche. Never mind. It was something to have traced his steps.

This afternoon, I explored more of "my" neighbourhood, and found first of all a Supermarche and bought some necessities like butter and salad dressing and more wine and more chicken (it is a less than closely guarded secret that I could happily live on Rotisserie chicken and salad). I found another market area a little farther afield (turn left at the Irish Pub!!) and made my way to the Parc de Monceau, a welcome oasis of greenery and flowers and statuary, within about a ten to fifteen minute walk from my apartment.

Parc de Monceau reflections

Life is made somewhat more difficult by not speaking the language. I completely abandoned the idea of buying an ice cream cone in the Parc because I simply didn't know what to ask for. Then again, sometimes things are just more difficult than they need to be. I knew that I could get the Museum Pass at the tourist information office at the Louvre. Consultation with the little map on the internet showed this establishment to be near the Carousel area, by that Arc de Triomphe de Caroussel that I saw yesterday. It's quite clearly marked on the little map. So I go there, and ... no... there's no Tourist office to be found. So, there was a kiosk of some kind with a couple of official looking guys in it, and I went up and said, I'm looking for the Tourist Office. Where is it? "Downstairs" he said. Um. Downstairs? Oh, yes, over there, there's a completely unmarked hole in the ground that leads you to this very official complex underground where, yes indeed, there is the office of tourism and one can get a Museum Pass. Phew. Some signage would be helpful, if anyone's interested...

The Museum Pass is good for 4 days, so I have to plan strategically. The next few are supposed to be cloudy and showery, then Monday is rumoured to be fine. Perhaps I will go to Versailles (covered by the pass) on Monday, and spend the next few days in the museums that I want to go to. I also want to go back to Saint Chapelle and see if I can get concert tickets (as well as just seeing the place).

Best Paris moment today? Definitely the jazz band playing on the Metro. (no, not in the station - actually IN the Metro) It was very very cool.

Any spelling mistakes or wobbly grammar, by the way, have to be put down to the fact that I'm drinking another bottle of wonderful wine that cost me about the equivalent of a 2L bottle of Coke at home. I'm surprised that alcoholism is not rampant here.

A bientot.
intertext: (Paris room with view)
Wednesday, May 9th, 2007 01:33 pm
It is now late evening, and I've had a full day. I've just finished a fine dinner of cold chicken and salad and a beautiful white wine (yes, I found the food shops). I've walked my feet off, but I'm feeling more oriented. At least I know which way is north outside my front door! Once, this evening, I almost got lost but then I found a street I recognized and found my way home - that's a good feeling.

But I'm ahead of myself.

I woke early and headed off down to the Ile de la Cite, to find Point Zero, and hit the highlights. I walked around the Ile de la Cite, past Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle and along the Seine to Pont Neuf. I crossed Pont Neuf, and walked through the Louvre complex and the Jardin des Tuileries. I stopped for coffee, then made my way to the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower. I had lunch at a cafe near the Ecole Militaire, then went to Rue Clerc, where I bought salad greens and fruit and cheese and bread, then headed home for a nap. After my nap, I walked down to the Champs Elysees and up to the Arc de Triomphe (highlight: the French flag furling under the Arc like a stage set for Les Miserables in the light of the setting sun), and back down towards my street, stopping to buy chicken and wine and more salad composee.

That was the intinerary - now the impressions.

I found myself surprised by the scale of things. Some things were much smaller than I expected (Notre Dame, the Seine, the Eiffel Tower); other things were much, much bigger, like the Louvre, which goes on, it seems, for miles.

I saw many beautiful, beautiful buildings. Lots of green space. Beggars. A very gallic waiter, dark, skinny, with a mobile nose and eyebrows. Many dogs of all sizes and shapes. Not as many frighteningly chic women as I expected, though there were more of these in the evening on the Champs. Lots of very French looking bicycles (no mountain bikes - they are all rather like mine at home, the old model sitting up straight handlebar kind with a basket in the front).

I learned that chicken breast here is less expensive than chicken legs (so much for the low fat diets!). That when a swarthy looking person, likely a women, asks you if you speak English, it's best to ignore her. That my French is crap; no one is fooled by my accent for a second. That my apartment faces North (Google Earth had led me to believe that it faced South, which was confusing). That if you want your five servings of fruit and veg per day, it's best to find them for yourself. Pastries are ubiquitous (I'd get fat, except you have to walk so far to find food).

Perhaps my best Paris moment today? An elderly gentleman stopped me near the Rue Cler and asked me if I was a tourist. When I said, "Oui," he asked me where I was from. When I said "Canada," his face lit up with a beaming smile, he shook my hand vigorously and exclaimed "Vive la Canada!"

Eiffel Tower