intertext

Wednesday

I've been more or less exploring Venice by the sestiere - going to the major sites in one district and poking around the streets. This isn't quite as systematic as it sounds; for one thing, I think trying to impose some kind of order on the exploration of Venice rather goes against the grain. And for another, I personally prefer to let my instincts and interests lead me around rather than a fixed schedule or itinerary. ( Read more... )

It was cloudy on Wednesday morning (the pic you see was taken on Tues), so I decided to go to the Accademia. Hint - go early and avoid line-ups. I was there at 9:30, before the throng of day's arrivals (by the time I left there was a long queue outside the door). ( Read more... )

And I'm officially in paradise. Amo Venezia.

I've been here now about 24 hours, and already have had enough sensory experience to last a lifetime. And I have TWO WHOLE WEEKS!!

Well, it's official. Venice is the most beautiful place in the world. But let's start at the beginning (oh, I've found an internet cafe, as you can tell - if anyone has any helpful hints about scoring wifi, I'd love to hear them...)

The flight was not uneventful. We hit bad turbulence over Belgium and hit a big airpocket - it was the worst turbulence I've ever been in, and I learned the difference between the fun adrenaline rush of scary when you know you're safe and the really sickening fear when you think that something seriously bad is going to happen. People were screaming - that tells you how bad it was. I guess if in all the air travel I've done, and will do, if that's the worst it's not too bad. Anyway, obviously I'm still here, and the rest of the flight was okay.

My landlady, Maya, gave me detailed instructions about getting to San Marco from the airport, and met me by Harry's Bar. I seem doomed to meet these effortlessly chic business women when tired, sweaty, and red in the face. But she was very charming, and my apartment is lovely, I think nicer than my one in Paris. It is in a very quiet courtyard (in fact the address means quiet courtyard) just off San Marco and is extremely handy for everything.

Yesterday, after I had showered and rested, I ventured out to explore and wandered around, being hit every five minutes or so with this "omg (actually holy shit!) I'm in Venice!!" moments (let's abbreviate omgV!). walk through San Marco and get that first glimpse of the lion and the dome behind OMGV! canals with gondolas OMGV! sitting in a courtyard listening to church bells and seeing swallows darting around OMGV! I walked and walked, finally coming out on the Zattere and saw that amazing Cannaletto view across the harbour in the setting sun OMGV! I scored a table at a rather posh restaurant and spent what would probably feed a small third-world country for a year on an amazing dinner - carpaccio, scampi, tuna, pinot grigio, grappa, espresso OMGV! and then took the boat back to San Marco and my apt.

This morning, I resolved to find out what Venetians have for breakfast (coffee and sweet rolls, apparently - I had cappuchino and brioche con chocolatte) and to forage for food supplies of my own. This mission was accomplished at and around the Rialto market, where I scored some wonderful ham and some bread and some rice salad con polle et pisce and some amazing wild strawberries (which I've already eaten), and other fruit, and some eggs and asparagus and salad greens and yogurt, so I can make an omelet or poached egg and asparagus or a sandwich and have fruit and yogurt for breakfast tomorrow. I need to find some wine, but I don't think that will be difficult.

From here - the internet cafe - I'm going to find some lunch and then go home for a siesta. Later, I'm going on a serious photoshoot. I did bring my "good" camera, and I'm glad I did - no photos yet, but should have some tomorrow.

Ciao for now!

In keeping with the theme of last night's play, I spent the day today wandering monuments of man's achievements in navigation, science, timekeeping and architecture. ( Read more... )

Just a flying post, as, not content with my scorage of a ticket to Waiting for Godot, I also managed to procure a same-day ticket to this evening's performance of Tom Stoppard's Arcadia. Not as glamorous as WfG, but seems also to be very popular and has had very good reviews. I read the play as a PhD student and loved it and have always wanted to see a production.

This morning, as well as buying theatre tickets, I hit bookshop Nirvana on Charing Cross Rd, wandered through Trafalgar Sq, into St Martin's in the Field, where I listened to a music rehearsal, and thence to the Tower, along, it seemed, with half the world.



It was a bit too crowded for my taste, but nevertheless an enjoyable outing. Nothing like sitting on the banks of the Thames eating ice-cream and looking at Tower Bridge to feel like "I'm in London! Woo hoo!!"

Probably more later.

I'm here



And it's not actually raining! I'm drinking a g&t in my hotel room, munching on "buffalo mozzarella and herbs" crisps, and will shortly have a supper of cold chicken and salad and strawberries and cream (and more gin).

I've been up for more than 27 hours (barring some light sleeping on the plane). I'm very tired, but trying to tough it out so as to force my body onto a more normal schedule as quickly as possible.

Anyway - I've settled into my nice cosy little hotel room




I went shopping for groceries, and then explored my neighbourhood





There is a Tube strike, at least for tomorrow, but somehow I don't feel like it's going to slow me down all that much!

It's so great to be here. See you tomorrow!