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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 01:03 am
I've found a cool place to sit in my hotel - they have a lovely little landing with Georgian style chaise longues, and it's a treat to sit here with my laptop. My room is an oven, particularly in the morning, because it faces east.

I feel like I'd like to record some random thoughts about Venice before they are less vivid in my mind. Read more... )
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 11:35 am
Tomorrow is my last day in Venice, and I'm not sure I'll post again until I get back to England. I'll be in Bath, and my hotel supposedly has internet, even if it's just for use when sitting in the front lobby.

I love Venice, and could totally see myself living here, if I had my animals and my books and good internet access. I love the human scale of it, although I might get tired of the crowds, and it might not seem so delightful in prolongued bad weather.

Anyway, my last few days have been busy. On Friday, I finally went to St Mark's basilica, and am glad I saved it till almost last, because it's sublime. I can only imagine the effect in natural light, and candles, as seen when it was first built. If you go, pay the extra money to go up on the "balcony," because it's totally worth it for the museum with the real horses and other things, for the close-up view of the dome, and the great views from the top.

cafe tables San Marco

The extra money for the altar screen is also completely worth it - not just for the gold and jewels (with bigger, better jewels for the more important people), but for the lines of saints in impeccably detailed cloissone, all with their sideways "I've got a secret" smiles. Quite honestly, I wouldn't bother with the treasure, unless you have a thing for reliquaries.

In the afternoon, I made one of my private, quixotic literary pilgrimages to San Servolo; those familiar with either Jeanette Winterson or Shelley's "Julian and Maddallo" (or both or the connections between them as in my case), will understand, and understand, too, why I took this photo of a rose.

Henri's rose, San Servolo

That night, there was a honking big thunder storm, almost all night long, which meant that I didn't get much sleep. It was still pouring with rain in the morning. Nevertheless, I decided to risk it and head off for Verona - another quixotic personal pilgrimage, searching for Zefferelli's Romeo and Juliet, which I did not fine, but enjoyed the trip in any case.
Verona is "fair," as Shakespeare describes it

Verona

I avoided all of the manifestations of "Juliet's Balcony" and "Juliet's Grave," but did enjoy the Castelvecchio, which afforded lovely views of the city. I think the pigeons followed me there.

pigeons on roof Italian pigeon

I'm not quite sure what I'm going to do in my last two days. It's very hot today, and I feel like taking it easy, so I think I may just loll about in my flat and eat gelato and watch the people in San Marco. I should probably go to Florian's cafe at least once, even paying the steep cover charge for a seat. And likewise tomorrow - I think I may just wander around, taking a few more photographs of charming views, and maybe go back to the basilica in the afternoon to see what it looks like in different light.

Ciao!
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Friday, June 26th, 2009 11:21 am
Wednesday

I've been more or less exploring Venice by the sestiere - going to the major sites in one district and poking around the streets. This isn't quite as systematic as it sounds; for one thing, I think trying to impose some kind of order on the exploration of Venice rather goes against the grain. And for another, I personally prefer to let my instincts and interests lead me around rather than a fixed schedule or itinerary. Read more... )
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Thursday, June 25th, 2009 10:30 am
Monday

my doorway

In the morning, I wrote postcards, then found a post-office and bought stamps and posted them (such small victories are the pleasures of negotiating life in a foreign country). I then went to my local supermarket and bought orange juice and yoghurt and some prosecco (can we get prosecco in Canada, I wonder?)Read more... )
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Thursday, June 18th, 2009 04:55 pm
grand canal and side street

It was cloudy on Wednesday morning (the pic you see was taken on Tues), so I decided to go to the Accademia. Hint - go early and avoid line-ups. I was there at 9:30, before the throng of day's arrivals (by the time I left there was a long queue outside the door). Read more... )
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Thursday, June 18th, 2009 04:39 pm
At last - I have pictures :-) Still no wifi, and at this point I think I'm going to give up and use my local internet cafe and a thumb drive. I probably will check in only every other day or so, but will continue to update.

First things first: here's me in my apartment

self in apt

Read more... )
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Wednesday, June 17th, 2009 12:07 pm
And I'm officially in paradise. Amo Venezia.

I've been here now about 24 hours, and already have had enough sensory experience to last a lifetime. And I have TWO WHOLE WEEKS!!

Well, it's official. Venice is the most beautiful place in the world. But let's start at the beginning (oh, I've found an internet cafe, as you can tell - if anyone has any helpful hints about scoring wifi, I'd love to hear them...)

The flight was not uneventful. We hit bad turbulence over Belgium and hit a big airpocket - it was the worst turbulence I've ever been in, and I learned the difference between the fun adrenaline rush of scary when you know you're safe and the really sickening fear when you think that something seriously bad is going to happen. People were screaming - that tells you how bad it was. I guess if in all the air travel I've done, and will do, if that's the worst it's not too bad. Anyway, obviously I'm still here, and the rest of the flight was okay.

My landlady, Maya, gave me detailed instructions about getting to San Marco from the airport, and met me by Harry's Bar. I seem doomed to meet these effortlessly chic business women when tired, sweaty, and red in the face. But she was very charming, and my apartment is lovely, I think nicer than my one in Paris. It is in a very quiet courtyard (in fact the address means quiet courtyard) just off San Marco and is extremely handy for everything.

Yesterday, after I had showered and rested, I ventured out to explore and wandered around, being hit every five minutes or so with this "omg (actually holy shit!) I'm in Venice!!" moments (let's abbreviate omgV!). walk through San Marco and get that first glimpse of the lion and the dome behind OMGV! canals with gondolas OMGV! sitting in a courtyard listening to church bells and seeing swallows darting around OMGV! I walked and walked, finally coming out on the Zattere and saw that amazing Cannaletto view across the harbour in the setting sun OMGV! I scored a table at a rather posh restaurant and spent what would probably feed a small third-world country for a year on an amazing dinner - carpaccio, scampi, tuna, pinot grigio, grappa, espresso OMGV! and then took the boat back to San Marco and my apt.

This morning, I resolved to find out what Venetians have for breakfast (coffee and sweet rolls, apparently - I had cappuchino and brioche con chocolatte) and to forage for food supplies of my own. This mission was accomplished at and around the Rialto market, where I scored some wonderful ham and some bread and some rice salad con polle et pisce and some amazing wild strawberries (which I've already eaten), and other fruit, and some eggs and asparagus and salad greens and yogurt, so I can make an omelet or poached egg and asparagus or a sandwich and have fruit and yogurt for breakfast tomorrow. I need to find some wine, but I don't think that will be difficult.

From here - the internet cafe - I'm going to find some lunch and then go home for a siesta. Later, I'm going on a serious photoshoot. I did bring my "good" camera, and I'm glad I did - no photos yet, but should have some tomorrow.

Ciao for now!